I slept fairly well despite the slight wind ruffling the tents so much it sounded like I was at sea, and a heavy wind was driving the sails. Oh and also despite hyenas laughing and calling at 4am. It sounded like people laughing and making animal noises. Goodluck told me hyenas laugh after a kill and indeed there were fewer guests at breakfast.

The omelette was nice, as was the pancake I didn't order (hope I wasn't eating someone else's) but the bacon was cold and chewy - we ate later than most. The birds poaching were very pretty, local starlings and buffalo eaglets?

On our first game drive of the day we saw a leopard which Goodluck spotted after seeing zebras standing looking one way. It was stymied in its hunting by the zebra attention. We also saw a leopard up a tree in our second game drive at 4pm, it took embarrassing minutes before I saw it and only when it moved down a branch.

We also had our best view of a couple of cheetahs (a coalition) sitting under a tree, waiting for an opening. We saw them again in the second game drive, moving around and bothering the gazelles, and then a group of three cheetahs. More lions including a courting couple, a sausage tree, and an evil looking small black thing which crossed the track in front of us. Goodluck told me it was a wide tailed mongoose.

Most of the tracks we travelled along are maintained by vehicles using them, rather like the migration paths. When one track gets too rutted people just drive over the grassland by the side, and the first track is returned to nature. We see mostly Toyota Land Cruisers like ours, some with sensible names but one was from Dolphin Tours which doesn't seem to fit being in the Serengeti. We passed a vehicle with just ladies in it from an Asilia camp which is run by women. I felt for the people in an Exodus bus (painted white which scares the animals), crammed in like sheep, it must have been very uncomfortable. Licence plates here start with T for Tanzania (U for Uganda etc).

It rained quite hard in the late afternoon. We saw rainclouds slowly gathering over the day, and it started as we finished our second game drive. Not what I expected! At least I haven't packed my waterproof in vain!